FSS-DSOC Seminar: “Counterfeits as Social Goods: Chinese Fashion and the Moral Economy in Mozambique”, by Dr. Johanna von Pezold

Counterfeits as Social Goods: Chinese Fashion and the Moral Economy in Mozambique

This paper examines the trade and consumption of Chinese-made counterfeit fashion goods in Mozambique from a moral economy perspective, challenging Western-centric notions of intellectual property and authenticity. Based on ethnographic fieldwork in Southern Mozambique (2017–2024), including market observation, interviews, and visual analysis, the study shows how counterfeits are widely accepted and even morally justified within the local economy.

Mozambican traders and consumers view Chinese counterfeits not as illicit, but as accessible, functional alternatives that enable participation in global fashion systems. In this setting, product desirability hinges on quality, aesthetics, and affordability rather than legality. Counterfeits are judged less by brand legitimacy and more by material craftsmanship, creating a flexible classification system where ‘fake’ refers to poor quality, not unauthorised branding.

While some local designers invoke intellectual property norms to protect their niches, the broader Mozambican garment market remains largely unregulated. This regulatory ambiguity reinforces the perception of counterfeits as legitimate, everyday goods. The prevalence of Chinese counterfeits reveals how Sino-Mozambican trade operates through informal practices that benefit local actors, challenge assumptions about authenticity, and expose contradictions in China’s global intellectual property stance.

These dynamics extend beyond Mozambique, reflecting broader patterns in Chinese-African trade. As China deepens its commercial presence, the evolving moral economy of counterfeits – shaped by local needs and global pressures – will continue to influence consumer behaviour, trade structures, and notions of value. This study urges a rethinking of authenticity and legitimacy in global commerce, highlighting how counterfeiting reflects both cultural values and strategic adaptation in global trade.

Dr. Johanna von Pezold is a Postdoctoral Researcher at the China Africa Fashion Power ERC project, based at the Amsterdam School for Cultural Analysis and the Media Studies Department at the University of Amsterdam, where she also teaches. After studying in Hamburg, Rio de Janeiro, Oxford, and Beijing, Johanna graduated with a PhD in Sociology from the University of Hong Kong, examining the creation of fashion in the trade and retail of Chinese-made garments and textiles in Mozambique. She has worked for various think tanks and management consulting firms in Germany, Brazil, and China. Johanna is especially interested in transnational flows of non-Western fashion and material culture, interactions between global commodity production and local consumer cultures, and China’s relations to the Portuguese-speaking world.